1. Maximize Depth of Field (DoF)
An approach to the normal concept of a landscape photography is "sharply from toe to the end of the horizon". The basic concept of the theory of "oldies" We agreed that an appropriate landscape as much as possible all parts of the photo is the focus (sharp). To get the sharpness wide or with other words the field of depth of focus (DOF) is as wide, can use apperture (aperture diaphragm) is as small as possible (large f number), for example F14, F16, f18, F22, f32, etc. So, with increasingly smaller apperture, means the length of exposure.
Because of the limitations of the lens (which is not able to reach f32 and / or f64) or spot position where we stand do not support, a different approach can be used, namely the theory of hyper-focal areas of focus to get the "optimal" in accordance with our scene face. The core of the hyper-focal distance is to put the focus point in the right position to get the focus area which the widest possible so it will be sharply distinguished from the FG to BG.
For example:
With a wide DoF, due to the use and application of hyper-f/20 focal distance to determine focus
Still with the hyper-focal pengaplikasikan to obtain a distinguished DOF widest
2. use tripod dan cable release
As a result of increasingly wide DOF resulting in increasing length of exposure, a tripod for long exposure required to ensure that the resulting image sharp because it will reduce the vibration when taking pictures. Here we also can use a cable release and will function image stabilizer (Canon) or VR (Nikon) will be helpful to produce a better picture.
3. look for Focal point or titik focus
The point of focus here is not the point where the focus of the camera is placed, but rather a point where the eye will first fixed (eye-contact) when viewing photos. A photo without a focal point, will make the eyes "wandering" without time to stop, which resulted in loss of interest in a landscape photo. Such images are often called flat (Bland). Focal points can be a form of buildings (which, uniquely among small or empty plains), trees (which stand alone), stone (or a set of stone), the person or animal, or the silhouette shape kontrast with BG, etc. Laying in which the focal point is also sometimes very influential, here the rules of "oldies" Rule of the Third play.
the example below, the focal point is a person who dressed in red umbrella
Focal point is the sun and reflections on the field:
4. Look for Foreground (FG)
Foreground could be a focal point becomes even POI (Point of Interest) in your landscape photo. Therefore look for a strong FG. An object or pattern in the FG can create a "sense of scale" of our landscapes.
examples of application of FG on stone
Another example...samples with FG on grass:
5.Select the sky or land
The sky is cloudy vibrant, especially during sunset or sunrise, will make us interesting photographs, but we still have to choose whether we will make our pictures composed mostly of the sky with putting a little below the horizon, or most of the mainland with putting a little weight on the horizon. How good was the land and sky that we meet / encounter when photographing, dividing two equal parts between the dramatic sky and the land / FG would make an interesting photograph of a landscape becomes the focus, krn both parts equally good. Composition by using the principle of "oldies" Rule of the Third would be very helpful. Put the horizon line, in 1 / 3 the top if we wished to emphasize (emphasize) its FG, or place the horizon in the third the bottom, if we want to highlight the sky. Of course the law "Rule of Third" may be violated, if the violation actually strengthens the focal point and not vice versa. It is also not always dead center is ugly.
sky dominates:
Violation of Rule of Third is the same split second between heaven and earth
6.Carilah Garis/Lines/Pattern
A line or pattern can make / become a focal which will lead the eye to further explore your landscape photo. Sometimes leading lines or patterns could even be a POI from the photo. The lines, also can provide a sense of scale or the image depth (depth of field). Lines or patterns can be anything, a row of trees, shadow, line the street, stairs, etc.
7. Capture moment & movement
A photo Landcsape does not mean we only catch (capture) the heavens, the earth or the mountain, but all the elements of nature, be it still or moving, such as waterfalls, streams, trees moving, the movement of clouds, etc., can make a landscape photo interesting.
8. Golden Hours & Blue hours
In the normal color landscape photography, the best time usually is a time around (before) sunset or after sunrise. Golden hours are the time, usually 1-2 hours before sunset (sunset) until 30 minutes before sunset, and 1-3 hours after sunrise, where the "golden light" or the sunlight will make the golden color of the object.
For example:
Blue is a few hours time, usually up to 20-30 minutes after sunset (sunset), where the sun had set, but the sky was not dark black. At this time the sky will be blue. So is not quite right, that at the time the sun had set and the sky was getting dark (by our eyes), we directly pack gear / tripod us. Precisely at this moment we can get a nice scene where the sky will be blue and not black. Usually with long exposure, cloud (though if we see with the naked eye sdh not shown) will still be seen clearly and give texture to the blue sky.
For example:
If we take photos during the golden hour has passed, or when the sun was blazing, usually the result will be flat or harsh lighting because the sun was already well above. This contrasts with the IR landscape photography who do not know the golden hours, where the best time just when the heat of the sun.
Although these errors now easily can be corrected with image editor, but I still believe "get it right the first time" will be optimized. There are 2 things the last time before we press the shutter:
· Is horizonya already straight, there are several ways to get straight horion time of execution on the field, see # 11
· Is already on the horizon komposisikan well, see # 5 for the application of Rule of third.
Regulation / rule is sometimes made to dilangar, but if the scene that we will create is not strong enough (strong) elementnya, usually Rule of the Third will help create a better composition. Indeed with croping later in image processing software, we can fix it. But if not forced, it's better when we have put executions on the horizon which should position.
Examples of the photo below is one of the dr picture I took the safe side (save) to position the horizon at the time of execution. Therefore I put the horizon right in the middle course, the hope at that moment, I can do cropping later on (either dicrop the top or bottom).
example of a straight horizon:
10.Change viewpoint/angle
Sometimes we are glued to the perspective or angle that we generally do, or maybe when we visit a place that we often see a picture either dimajalah or the FN website like this, we become "talkative" and taking pictures with the same angle. Many ways to get a fresh point of view. Not always "eye-level angle" (the normal position when we are standing) in a photograph that best. Try with high-angle (the camera raised above the head), waist-level angle, low-level, etc., try different horizontal format and / or vertical. Or trying to find a spot or a different stand point or a different place, for example from the top of the tree (there is a senior photographer I know who likes to climb trees to get a different view, and the results are different and unique), or try to stand more ketepi abyss , or even lying on the ground, of course, with more priority to your own safety as a major factor and calculate the risks that may be obtained. One thing that must be understood, tried with different viewpoints do not always automatically the image we will be better or better, but so once you get a better view, is guaranteed to be different from the others. With her frequent experiments with different angles, over time you will instinctively trained while in the field to get not only a good angle, but also different. Do not take pictures over and over again at one point / spot. Try to shift a few feet laterally or forward, or even walk long distances. Also occasionally try to turn round to see, sometimes can get interesting and different angle. 3-5 exposures / shots at one point and "move on, change spot, change orientation (landscape <-> portrait), look back, change lenses". Especially if you frequently travel, be it to a place that is public or to a place rarely visited photographers. There are times when we are in a spot where the pictures from that location was the site of a "million people" where hundreds or even thousands of photographers have photographed in the same spot and produce images that are similar or disparate thin. Use photographs that often you see it as a reference, study and apply the technique and try to find something different. Make a difference. If do not mind sleeping on the asphalt for a moment.
The use of some auxiliary equipment below will be helpful to get a better landscape photos.
- CPL filter
- ND filter
- Graduated ND filter
- Graduated color filter
-Bubble level if no existing grid in view finder or use a focusing screen with grid, very helpful to achieve the level horizon
12. lensa yang digunakan
Sometimes there is the assumption that a photograph of a landscape that must use the lenses as wide as possible. But in making a photograph of a landscape, all lenses can be used, from super wide lenses (14mm, 16mm, etc.), wide (20mm - 35m), medium (50mm - 85mm), up to a telephoto / super telephoto (100mm - 600mm). All range and lens can be used. It all depends on the needs and the scene that we face. Lens wide / super wide sometimes needed if we want to summarize a broad scene with objects that include a lot or a remote or want to get a unique perspective. But sometimes a tele can be used to isolate the scene so that more un-cluttered, simple and focus. If arriving at a location / spot, try try with all lenses that you bring. Do not be fixated on one lens and photographed repeatedly.
Sometimes it takes foresight, to see and find a unique shape or pattern of the extent of a landscape scene, so that we can either isolation by using the right lens. Only by frequent shooting and face a variety of scenes in a variety of conditions that can hone your instincts, be it an object what to look for or what lens should be used. The use of standard lenses that do not like fish-eye (be it a diagonal or a full-circular) could also get an interesting view, certainly with the use at the right time. Not always use fish-eye image to produce "good" although it is different.
Examples of landscape photos with 200mm lens
Examples of landscape photos with 300mm lens
The use of fish-eye lens
source:
kaskus.us
By: indoagam
http://fotografer.net
By: Yadi Yasin
>>Selesai baca jangan lupa jempolnya y....
1 komentar:
if any input you can post here
Post a Comment